Halfway there!

St Georges, capital city of Grenada
Sailing is a blur sometimes

The return trip, the one you’ve already covered isn’t my favourite part of any route whether its out for a run or a sail down to Grenada. But return we must so having reached the zenith, we return to Prickly Bay to refuel, add water and provision before heading north. The return trip will be much faster than the jaunt down to Grenada, 3 months to cover the 5,000 nautical miles that we took 8 months to come down in.

After provisioning, we sail north to the capital city, St. Georges. It’s a lovely city, built in a circle around the harbour, with red fish scale tile roofs that offer a colourful welcome to the seafaring visitor. It is bustling and loud. Uniformed school kids, yell at one another, happy to be released from the grasp of their schools in the hot afternoon sun.

St. Georges

We stop by Grenada Yacht Club for lunch, they have a beautiful view of the harbour and decent food. We spend the day in St. George walking around, snapping pics, being tourists. We decide to sail to Grand Mal Bay and anchor that night. Our intent is to get up early enough to snorkel the underwater sculpture park created by Jason Decayers Taylor, off Molinere Point. This is something I have been anticipating and it was on the list of ‘must-sees’. I can’t wait to get in the water. No one is there but us and we find the first sculpture quickly. Over the next hour we dive and find 4 more but the man sitting at the desk eludes me, as well as the person on a bicycle. The depths of 7-8 meters prove too deep for my snorkelling abilities. No matter, the statues we see are fabulous and were everything I had hoped to see.

Statues – Vicissitudes
Vicissitudes
Vicissitudes – Full Circle
The Fall from Grace
Early Morning Snorkelling

Carriacou

As we clear the coast of Grenada early in the afternoon, I am feeling sentimental about leaving the island behind. We make it to Carriacou by late afternoon, which is still a part of Grenada. We settle into Tyrell Bay, and have a well earned anchor beer after a somewhat tumultuous sail.

The next day we head in and have a really fine lunch at Skipmans. I have a mahimahi grilled burger. Yummy! The food in Carriacau is really good, including a dasheen pizza with egg that we try at the Lazy Turtle. We take a stroll down the beach and come across a dive shop. Al’s regulator, which he bought in 1979, finally gave up the ghost. We walk into Lumbadive and Diane, one of the owners greets us. She is friendly, helpful and has a solution for Al’s regulator. While there he asks about their Learning to Dive program. Richard, the other owner talks with us and we decide to book me in for the next day.

Plastic and Pots
Pretty Porch in Carriacou
Skipmans view
Water and sand
A house on the hill
Where is Ingy?
PAID diving at its finest

Diving

I am stoked to try diving and cannot wait to get going. We start in the pool , which is on the beach in front of the Lumbadive shop. Richard is fun, professional and I am the only student today! We go into the water and he teaches me basic manoeuvres such as – breathing, finding my regulator if I drop it, etc. Reassured that I know enough to not drown we head out for a dive outside Tyrell Bay. Wow! The minute I make it to the ocean floor I am mesmerized. The water is crystal clear and there’s so much to see.

That night on the boat I cannot stop talking about it, so much in fact, that Al asks if I’d be interested in completing the Level 1 course. An early birthday present! Over the next 3 days I complete the online tests and get to do 2 more pool sessions and complete 4 dives.

Flying High
I get the blues sometimes
Carriacou Anchorage
Beer and Barber Shop
Filly is like, Whatever
Dasheen and Egg pizza from the Lazy Turtle
Cashew Nuts, another new fruit
Dive Flag
Getting my toe Painted by Richard
Divers flag on toe
Lumba Dive

Saildrive

While prepping for the sail course Richard suggested we move in closer to shore and use Lumbadive’s wifi to complete the online portion of the course. We haul anchor and move closer to shore but find the boat is unresponsive. Al thinks its me but when he comes back to try it himself, he comes to the sad realization that our transmission is failing. Our forward gear is slipping, but reverse is fine. The bloody Yanmar sail drive is giving us trouble again.

So guess what? We haven’t left Grenada behind us yet! My sentimentality was for nought. We decide to return to Prickly Bay to get the work done by a certified Yanmar dealer. We get up early the next morning. There is no wind, we’re in close to shore in a crowded anchorage, we cant sail out nor can we motor out. Instead we weave our way out of the anchorage through the numerous boats, in reverse. We discuss if we can reverse the entire route back to Grenada, jokingly. Once outside of the anchorage we pick up a breeze of 6-8 knots of wind, raise our sails and take off. We decide to take the windward side down to Prickly Bay this time to ensure we can make it around the southern end of Grenada and tack back into Prickly Bay. The winds increase throughout the day to 16-18 knots. It turns into an awesome sail, and Ingomar sails into Prickly Bay with no problems. We drop the sails and when Ingomar slows, we drop the anchor and fall back, our anchor secure just outside of Spice Island Marina. Our return to Grenada comes much sooner than either of us had anticipated.

Looking out Tyrrell Bay
Hanging out at home

Author: tess

A full-time adventurer, I am sailing our 37-foot Tartan with my husband and kitty, to the Caribbean from Newfoundland while documenting it on our blog, greatbigsail.com

9 thoughts on “Halfway there!”

  1. Thanks again Tess for the great posts and pics and allowing us to be part of your amazing adventure. Happy Birthday wishes to Captain Al as I believe today is his birthday. Safe travels as start on your return voyage.
    Jen

    1. Hey Jen! Al says thanks for the bday wishes and awfully nice of you to remember 🙂 We’ve been w/o wifi for a bit so apologies for our tardy delay in responding. Cheers!

      1. No worries, tell Al the only reason I remember is because mine is around the same time……………it is really all about me……….LOL.

  2. Yo Sea People

    For the love of God will you bring some warm weather with you when you come back ???

    Somebuddy, a little more famous than me, once said: “it’s not the destination but the journey to get there “………….aaaaaaah I forget the rest, regardless enjoy your sail back!!! No rush by the way…..nuttin but a windchill here and pack ice as far as the eye can see!

    Oh and Congrats on the PADI. I love diving in the WARM weather oceans. Selling my dry suit by the way….interested?

    Cheers
    B

    1. Hey Brian! Wow, we sure hope it warms up before we get back or we’re gonna freeze. And the sea ice, well thats a whole other bundle of trouble. The warm water diving was awesome and so easy. I’m not sure how cold water diving will go as I’ve never done it before but Al reassures me its fine. We’ll see!

  3. AFT,

    How ya gettin on?

    Halfway there is unbelievable.

    Congratulations on your painted toe, completing the level 1 diving course, another huge accomplishment to cross off your list.

    My curiosity has certainly been piqued with the underwater sculptures. I’ll definitely investigate further. What an amazing work of art.

    Your return to Grenada seems fitting, as it was the destination you were most eager to arrive, but shitty that transmission repair is the reason.

    Continue on your journey safely. Love you.

    1. Hey Ger! Diving was a cool thing to cross off the list and it opens up a whole lot more, like the sculptures. There are may parks all over the world and I’d love to check out more of them, (in warm waters). Its fun trying new things and I’m thinking sky-diving might be next 😉 Love to you!

  4. Happy Easter Ingomar crew…we missed you!

    Remember when dad would drive reverse over George Murphys’ hill at the same speed as he would going forward. He was such a great driver and your little blog brought that memory rushing through my head. Thanks for that.

    The underwater art is haunting and beautiful and I can’t
    even compute how brilliant an experience that must have been.

    Certified PADI and a man painted your toenail..impressive all round. Your sweet husband is also impressive, that is a gift that will keep on giving.

    It is hard to believe you will be back to the homeland in 3 months. I’m happy and sad…now who will I live vicariously through.

    We had a lovely easter…Ger, Leah, Eli and Ashie added a bit of spring to our non-existant spring.

    Love always from me and the familiar. Hopefully we will meet up at the gorda but I’m fully cognizant Ingomar is the boss. ❤️

    1. Jac, I had totally forgotten about Dad driving in reverse too, until you mentioned it! He was such an excellent driver, I think I always aspired to be one too because of him. Yeah, torn a bit over the return. Of course, it has to happen but its going to take a huge readjustment (for me). Still we miss everyone and my purpose is to find the adventure in life there as I have here. Love to you too!

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