New England adventures

It’s time to return to Newport.  Ingomar is in perfect shape thanks to Michael from S/V Chasseur, who had looked in on her, starting the engine and making sure she was secure while on a mooring. Not having to worry about Ingomar while traveling was a relief.

Filbert is ecstatic to get aboard Ingomar after his recent traveling adventures.   He amazes me with his ability to adapt and go with whatever we throw at him.  Even after 2 terrifying dinghy rides, 2 long car trips, 4 plane rides and numerous house transfers with resident pets in all of them he was still chill. To appease him, during our time in Newfoundland I stocked up on his favourite food, which had run out several months back.  This seemed to please him immensely.

Filbert after all his travelling
Husband Daycare in Newport
Trash Skimmers in Newport Harbour
Al and Nancy brave the weather
Sailing

Our first priority is to relocate Ingomar from a mooring ball, which is not cheap, to an anchorage, which is free and settle in. The weather however, is sadly disappointing. At first it didn’t matter because we are exhausted from our recent travels. We sleep 2 whole days with the Espar heater running full boar. Even though its cool and rainy outside, its warm and toasty below.

Still, Newport is the most vibrant harbour and watching the daily activity is enthralling. People sail everyday, regardless of the conditions. The single handed race to Bermuda starts and about 30 boats leave on a Saturday morning. Young sailors in dinghies and lasers are constantly sailing around, a Volvo 65 gets loaded on a tanker, the Annapolis to Newport race ends. It is such a dynamic harbour.

It’s also ideal for sailing.  Every morning is calm, but around 11 the wind comes up from the south west at 15-20 knots. Boats begin to move, sails unfurl, water taxis are constantly running, port authority patrols and the VHF radio doesn’t stop.

There are many services available to sailors as well. The St. Ann Marina and the Seaman’s Church Institute offer showers, laundry, wifi and info. Its easy to get water and fuel, provisioning is a breeze and theres an endless choice of places to eat out or shop. I think Newport is probably the perfect harbour.

The Seaman’s Institute
The Wave – Newport
Michael takes us on a tour of YRIS
The Coronet Restoration
Coronet Poster
Al the items from the boat are stacked along the sides
Mission burger and fries – before and after
Setting off for Cape Cod canal – brrr

We do some touring, eat and hang out, and visit with Nancy and Michael.  Because the weather is cool and rainy we don’t explore extensively. In fact the last day I wore gloves while out walking around but I still love this place.  One place we do visit is the IYRS institute, dedicated to traditional and modern restoration of boats. The Coronet, a 185-foot schooner is currently being restored on site. The effort is impressive. Once the restoration, which began in 1995 is complete, the shed where Coronet sits, will be torn down and the ship launched.

It’s time to haul anchor and sail out of Newport on a calm, cool morning.  There’s many boats out and about, sailing conditions are ideal with winds from the NE,15 knots gusting to 22.  We put one reef in the main, unfurl the jib and navigate the traffic, heading for Onset, Massachusetts.  Onset, is an ideal overnight spot as its located just at the mouth of the entrance to Cape Cod Canal.

Our transit next morning is standard, we made sure our timing is conducive to tides and currents. Early morning, the mist is rising off the water, the air is still and quiet except for birds calling and the sound of running water.  As we enter the canal the sun begins to rise, illuminating the day in golden hues. Due covers everything.  Fisherman line the shore and cast their lines hoping to catch the big one of the day.

We are the only boat in the canal that morning.

Cape Cod Sunrise
Onset sunset
Yes indeed!

We sail to Plymouth, Massachusetts in a couple of hours and tie up to Brewers Marina dock. Michael referred us here and it’s a lovely spot; the marina is comfy, people are friendly and the town of Plymouth offers lovely trails and heaps of history. We have to wait out a blow that is passing through the northeast, bringing some high winds and waves. While waiting for the blow to pass we follow the news of the plight of the single handed racers coming form Plymouth, England to Newport and hope all are rescued in time.

I go out for several runs while in Plymouth, my first in ages, but it feels great. The town has a  waterfront trail that leads to the breakwater.  Plymouth is steeped in history; its where the Mayflower landed and Pilgrims came ashore. Tourists are everywhere and the town is bustling with activity.

Filly, meanwhile, is delighted to be on the dock and while slow to come off the boat initially, he quickly gets accustomed to jumping off and wandering, on leash of course. One night he miscalculates the distance and misses the dock, landing with his forepaws on the dock but his feet and tail in the water.  Indignant as only a cat can be, he returns to the boat for a wash down and a sulk.

We hang around Plymouth for 3 days, but once a good weather window opens we are off. At 2:30 pm, with a sunny sky and a good forecast, Ingomar  clears the harbour and heads for Halifax, which we expect will be a 2-3 night sail offshore. We have our fingers crossed that the weather warms up because we can’t wear any more layers.

Beer pairing advice – always good to know.
Scary house
Intrepid English Women statue
Memorial tree to war vets, Plymouth
Pilgrim Monument
Tunnel vision
Sailing with kitty
Filly tries to stay warm in Al’s floater jacket

Author: tess

A full-time adventurer, I am sailing our 37-foot Tartan with my husband and kitty, to the Caribbean from Newfoundland while documenting it on our blog, greatbigsail.com

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